San Francisco's 24th Street: The Official Culinary Walking Tour

Welcome to the 24^th Street culinary walking tour with your guide Rick Popko. On our journey today, we will sample a few of the many sights, sounds, tastes and smells that make 24 street one of the most provocative destinations in Northern California. Before we begin, you should have already printed this story out so you can use it as your map. If you have one of them new-fangled smart phones with an Internet browser, you can use that, too. 

Please note that this is not a historical tour. The only historical thing I know about 24^th St. is that it used to be a predominantly Irish neighborhood before it became a predominantly Latino neighborhood. Also, 24^th St. has quite a diverse selection of coffee shops (there are nine of them), bars (there are nine of those) and restaurants (there are 20 taqueria/Mexican/Latin American restaurants—and that doesn’t include all of the other ethnic restaurants on the on the street).  There’s just no way I could include everyone, or it would take you weeks to complete the tour. For the sake of brevity, I am only including my favorite and/or noteworthy places.

Orientation:

We will begin our trip at the corner of Mission and 24^th Street. You can drive there, but I don’t suggest it, as parking can be incredibly difficult in the area. There’s actually a Muni and BART stop at 24^th and Mission.

One of the first things you’ll notice when looking around 24^th St. and Mission is that it’s not a very visually-appealing location, and it has the tendency to attract unsavory elements such as street preachers, who yell bible versus at you in Spanish through 50 Watt megaphones, homeless people who just need $.50 so that they can “Get back to Oakland,” and punk kids who sport Al Pacino “Scarface” t-shirts, jeans bunched around their ankles, gold-plated jewelry (and teeth) and crooked baseball caps.

 

I don’t suggest lingering in this area for any length of time. But, while you’re there, please observe the Chinese Food & Donuts restaurant on the corner of 24^th and Mission. While this is both a culinary and walking tour, we will not be stopping there on this trip. Not that it’s bad food per se… It just doesn’t offer anything worth writing home about. It’s your typical “steam-table”-style Chinese where you get two items and either rice or noodles for $5. I just thought that was an interesting food pairing. Sort of like fried chicken and waffles… Regardless, it’s certainly better than what you’re going to get for your money at McDonald’s, which is right across the street and where we’re going to start today’s tour. And, no, we’re not going into the McDonald’s. That’s just where we’re going to start our walk… on that side of the street. 

As you begin walking down 24^th St., one of the first things you’re going to notice are all of the murals up and down the street and alleyways. Some people think it’s art. I think it’s debatable. There’s some interesting stuff out there, but, for the most part, I’m not particular fond of most of what’s there today.  Thankfully many of the murals change pretty frequently. The one thing murals do, is reduce the amount of graffiti that’s prevalent in the neighborhood. It may sound odd, but there’s actually a code of honor among taggers. You don’t tag another person’s wall artwork.

At 3243 24^th, you’ll come upon Galu Reality. Marvel at the window display and wonder why they decided to include a stuffed armadillo and turtle along with antique “home for sale” signs. In my years in the Mission, I must have passed by the place a million times, and I’ve NEVER seen it open.

As you approach the corner of 24^th and South Van Ness, you’ll find Mixcoatl. Be amazed at the vast selection of colorful Mexican wrestler masks on display on the racks outside. It’s a good store to browse in, as they have the best selection of Mexican crafts and jewelry on 24^th St. If you need a keepsake from your trip today, I recommend picking up a hand-crafted wooden “Day of the Dead” skeleton figurine. They have them in a number of sizes and they make great Christmas tree ornaments. 

At 311 24^th, you’ll find “Local Mission Eatery” (yes, I believe that’s actually the name of the place) and Knead Patisserie. LME’s in front, and the Knead’s in back. Both places opened in March of this year. LME specializes in gourmet $9.00 sandwiches such as braised lamb shoulder and slow roasted rock cod. I can’t vouch for the delectability of their sandwiches, because I just can’t fathom the thought of paying $9.00 for a sandwich. But, if that kind of thing doesn’t bother you, then I suggest giving it a try. When you mosey on back to Knead, you’ll want to try one of their malted chocolate éclairs ($3.50) or a “season’s first strawberry parfait ($4.50). Very decedent.

After you exit LME with your desert snack in hand, you’ll probably want some coffee to go with it. There’s Phil’z, which is right up ahead on the corner of 24^th and Folsom. Phil’z is famous for making every cup of coffee by hand. Personally, I think it’s a lot of hype. I’ve had Phil’z a couple of times, and wasn’t that impressed. AND it’s more expensive than the other coffee shops in the area. If you need a good, reasonably- priced cuppa of Joe, dart on over to Sundance, which will be coming up on the left-hand side of the street on the corner of 24^th and Harrison. While you’re there, be sure to check out the “Nuestro Vecindario" poster in the window. Yes, it’s an actual sign that suggests that residents poo-poo in the toilet and NOT on the sidewalk.

Before you get to Sundance, you’ll pass Sandy’s Nails (3065 24^th). I only mention this, because they have a mani-pedi special (with foot spa!) for $20. You might duck in here if you have a hankering to have your hands and feet pampered for a half hour. The only drawback is the smell of the place. When I dropped in, it smelled like someone had opened 25 bottles of nail polish and forgot to screw the lids back on.

Next up is Balmy Alley. If you’ve been digging the murals you’ve been seeing on the walls this far, you might want to stroll down Balmy. There's some weird stuff down there. 

At 2981 24^th, you’ll find Precita Eyes Mural Arts and Visitor Center. Check out some of the original artwork they have, all done by local artists and all reasonably priced. The “Homey” shadow boxes by Cindy De Losa at $200 apiece are a steal!

You MUST stop into Tortas Los Picudos @ 2969 24^th and order a #3 (Pierna-Smoked Pork Ham Torta--$6.00) with everything. These guys make one of the best tortas in the city.

As we approach the corner of 24^th and Alabama, you’ll notice a couple of Mexican bakeries.  I’ll be honest, I’ve tried a number of Mexican bakeries in the neighborhood (including these two), and to be honest, I’m just not a big fan of them, so I can’t make any recommendation. If you’re feeling adventurous, knock yourself out and try one of the sweets in the window.

Need a new set of rosary beads or a statue of Jesus Christ for your fireplace mantle? Be sure to drop into Libreria San Pedro St. Peter Bookstore at 2913 24^th. They have a wide assortment of eclectic religious iconography. If you’re non-religious like me, you’ll just find the place downright weird. 

2869 24^th will lead you to Arkay Works Shop. It’s a hipster clothing store. Stop in and see what the local 20-something slackers are wearing today.

For our next culinary delight, mosey on up to Roosevelt’s tamale parlor (2817 24^th St.) and order up Roosevelt’s famous “Round Tamale” ($8.95 for 1 or $12.95 for 2—includes rice and beans). Their tamales are 100% house made, and the restaurant’s a preserved San Francisco landmark. The place was established in 1919.

For a little blast-from-the-past, head on into St. Frances Fountain (established in 1918) located on the corner of 24^th and York. They serve Mitchell’s ice cream that many locals believe is the best ice cream in the city. If you’re around for brunch, and can elbow your way around the hoard of groggy hipsters always lurking around out front, I strongly recommend the house-made corned beef hash breakfast.

When you get to Potrero St., cross to the other side of 24^th St. to head back down to BART. There’s not much to talk about beyond Potrero unless you’re ready for a cocktail, in which case there’s Jack’s Bar just up the street or need a tattoo, in which case there’s Henry’s Tattoo parlor. I should mention that Jack’s specializes in Cajun fair such as po boy sandwiches and jambalaya. On the day I dropped by for a beer, they had fresh crawfish from the gulf of Louisiana.

At 2732 24^th, you’ll see Manivanh Thai restaurant. I think it’s one of the best Thai restaurants in the city. It’s not exactly cheap, but if they’re open, drop in and try their Pad-Thai.

For our next little culinary treat, make a pit stop at Dynamo Donut & Coffee and get a bacon-maple donut. It’s $3.00 (I know, I know that’s pretty pricy for a donut), but you should get one so you can say you tried it. They tell me the handmade yeast-risen dough goes through three rising processes. The donuts aren’t too bad actually. Try to get there early in the day, as they have a tendency to sell out by late afternoon. 

Just down from there you’ll discover Casa Sanchez. There was not physical address that I could see from the outside of the store. And I’m not particularly thrilled with their food. But I had to mention them, because of the unique story that goes with the place. A few years ago as a PR stunt, the owners of Casa Sanchez offered a special deal. Anyone who got a tattoo of their mascot “Jimmy the Corn Boy,” is eligible for a free burrito every day for life! The stunt worked. They got quite a bit of media play over it… Their thinking was that maybe one or two people would be stupid enough to actually go through with it… Well, they greatly underestimated the intelligence of us San Franciscans. It turned out that so many people went and got the tattoo, they had to ultimately retract the offer, because the promotion was quickly running them out of business. 

Between York and Bryant is a cute little park to stop in. If you’re planning a picnic lunch on your walk, this is the place to have it. Take in the mural work and the cool mosaic serpent. If it’s hot during your walk, head on over the two yellow posts on the left-hand side of the park, press the green button on the top of the first one and then go stand in the center of the serpent.

On the sidewalk corner of Bryant and 24^th, there’s usually someone selling flowers and they’re really inexpensive. You can get a beautiful potted orchid for $10!

At 2872 24^th, you’ll find Tio Chilo’s. The reason I’m calling this place out is because its outside awning boasts they serve “The Best Mexican AND Italian Food!”… How does that saying go… “Jack of all trades…?”

At 2878 24^th is Ming’s and it’s the best Chinese restaurant on 24^th St. Pop on in there for a plate of spicy chicken wings ($6.68) or #77 Black Pepper Beef Steak in Hot Iron Platter.

On the corner of 24^th and Florida you’ll find La Palma Mexica-Tessen. These guys have the best carnitas ($6.99 a pound) and chili verde in the city. You can also get freshly-made corn tortillas (the bags are still warm) or buy prepared masa ($1.33 a pound) and make tortillas at home. The place is usually a mob scene, but it's worth the wait. 

2950 24^th St. brings you to Taqueria El Farolito, in my opinion the absolute BEST taqueria in the Mission. And believe me, after living here for 10+ years, I’ve certainly eaten my fair share of burritos. The one thing you must absolutely try is the super quesadilla suiza with either steak or carnitas ($5.45). It’s so rich, you’ll be hard pressed to eat an entire one all on your own. Be sure to load up on the “green” salsa at the self-serve salsa bar. It’s the perfect cool and spicy complement to the quesadilla and one of the best salsas I’ve had in the city.

On the corner of 24^th and Harrison, you’ll want to drop into Usultan, and order a pupusa de queso y loroco ($2.10). The reason I mention this place is that you’d be surprised how many people have NEVER had a pupusa. For those who’ve never had one, a pupusa is a thick, hand-made biscuit-like flatbread (made using masa de maiz). It’s stuffed with meat, beans or cheese and then grilled until its contents are hot and gooey inside. Loroco is an edible flower that grows in El Salvador. The dish should be accompanied with a cabbage slaw (if they don’t deliver it with the pupusa, ask for it, and they shouldn’t charge you extra for it). I like to put the slaw on top of my pupusas along with sliced pickled jalapeños and a couple of jiggers of Tapatio. Muy Bueno! There are a few places on 24^th St. that have pupusas, but I like Usultan’s the best.

For a slight deviation from 24^th St. you absolutely must stop at Humphry Slocombe (2790 A Harrison St.)—almost directly across the street from Usultan. It’s an ice cream parlor that has out-of-this world flavors, such as Kumquat Poppy Seed, Jesus Juice Sorbet (consisting of red wine and coke classic), peanut butter curry and ancho-chocolate. It’s $2.25 for a kid’s serving or $3.25 for a single serving that includes up to two flavors. They also don’t mind dishing out the sample tastes so you can try before you buy.

From there, it’s just a few short blocks back to the BART station. And that ends our trip. I hope you had a good time, learned a few things and made some new friends along the way.